FAQS
By Steve Cohen, Executive Director, America’s Best BootfFitters
Oh the questions we get! Here’s a sample from our mailbag that may solve your problem.
Note: Click on the question to reveal the answer
Q. Are there any charts showing boot sole length by mondo size? I realize this will vary with manufacturer.
A. Here’s an easy rule of thumb. Roughly, 305 is a size 8 men (26 MP). Go up or down 10 mms for each size. (Be aware: some companies vary by 3-4 mms and Atomic is way off in B Series).
Q. What are the main points of consideration when selecting ski boots?
A. It's sort of like buying real estate but instead of location, location, location, it's fit, fit, fit. If a boot doesn't fit properly and causes pain or hot spots, your skiing will suffer and you will most likely curtail the amount of time you spend on the hill. A good boot fitter will help you select a boot that has a last (interior shape) designed for your type of foot. They will also set the adjustments to match your body type and do comfort and performance modifications to maximize the boot's performance for the way you stand and ski, a process called stance alignment.
Q. Do different types of skiing require different boots?
A. One pair of ski boots is fine for all types of conditions and skiing unless you race. Then you might have a pair built specifically for slalom or speed events (Super G, downhill). You can adjust most boots for conditions like powder (where you might want a looser fit and more adaptable flex) by changing the tension on the buckles or the on-board flex adjuster (if the boot is so equipped).
If you spend a lot of time in parks and pipes you will want a boot that's provides better impact absorption for landings and a more forgiving cuff for landing and skiing switch (backwards). If you spend lots of time in the backcountry hiking to your skiing you will also want a cuff that's slightly more forgiving than that on a race boot for easier walking. Of course you need to buy a boot that's has a flex pattern that's soft orstiff depending on how accomplished a skier you are.
Q. What is the most common mistake people make when buying new boots?
A.
1. Buying them too big! The right size boot can initially feel uncomfortable in a shop but liners are built with foam and other materials that will compress over time. Our test team has tested hundreds of boots over the past decade and many often feel tight and uncomfortable when new but adapt to the foot quickly, often after only a few runs. Good boot fitter know what size you need. Trust them to make the right selection.
2. Buying boots without professional help. When it comes to boots its service and knowledge that you are paying for so visit a shop that specializes in boot fitting. We encounter dozens of people each season who tell about the "good deal" they got on a pair of boots but trashed them after only a season or two because they didn't fit or perform well. A good fitting pair of boots will last 5-7 seasons for a recreational skier.
3. Buying boots that are too soft. Beginners and novice skiers need boots that forgive their occasional mistakes but not one that is so soft that it won't transmit the energy to the ski when they execute the proper movements. After they've rented a few times and have committed to the sport, buy a boot one or two steps up from the entry level offerings. They will perform and fit better.
Q. Why are my feet always cold?
A. Without knowing more about you or seeing your feet it's hard to say what your problem is.
It could be a blood flow restriction or nerve impingement caused by overbuckling of boots or you just may have poor circulation. Cold feet can also be caused by excessive perspiration, snow leakage into the shell or wearing too many layers of socks (yes, you read that right. One medium weight layer of good, hydrophobic ski socks like those from Smartwool is all you need.)
You would probably benefit from having an electronic boot warmer like those from Hotronic installed in whatever boots you buy. There are other tricks a boot fitter can do to increase warmth in ski boots.
Q. How can I tell if I am neutral, bowleg or knock-knee?
A. It’s easy to get a broad indication. Stand in front of a mirror with your feet directly under your shoulders. Slowly bring them together. If your knees touch first, you are knock-kneed. If your ankles touch first, you're bowlegged. If they touch about the same time, you are neutral. A master boot fitter can help you adjust your alignment if you are out of the norm.
Q. I am a senior skier now and have not skied for probably 10 years. I am presently getting back in shape and inspecting my gear. I will not be skiing black slopes anymore, or NASTAR. Blues and Green slopes for me. My Nordica 990 boots are still in excellent shape except that a black shin plastic plate at the leading edge top of each boot is broken off. Can you replace these plates? Are 990's still a decent boot? I usethem with Nishizawa 207 skis.
A. I know you probably don't want to shell out lots of dough for new gear but both your boots and your skis should be replaced. Replacements for the part you mention is not available and anyway, the plastic used in ski boots dries out and becomes brittle and prone to sudden cracking in cold weather after about seven years. Particularly if they have been stored in warm conditions as you probably experience in FL.
As well, the technology of both boot and skis has taken a quantum leap in the past decade. You will ski in greater comfort and ease and with more precision with a good pair of shorter, shaped skis and modern boots that require less effort to pilot them. Modern bindings too are infinitely safer. Given your advancing age, your body is more prone to stress and you should take every step to maximize your safety.
Q While I have had my boots for quite a long time, I have taken good care of them. On my last ski trip, they both shattered into many pieces at the same time during a high speed GS run. Just wondering if this is a common occurrence with these boots (or any boots) and what to do to avoid this from happening again.
A. It's not uncommon with older boots, especially in colder temperatures and those skied in high altitudes where UV rays from sun are more powerful. As plastic ages and is hit by UV it become more brittle. Seven years and about 200-300 days of skiing is about max use for a ski boot.
Q. I own a pair of older woman’s Lange heated boots and the right won’t charge. Can I get it repaired – or purchase a new one? Is it worth it and what is the current state of heated boots?
A. New heaters are so much more reliable with batteries that last much, much longer that what you have. Several models from Atomic, Dalbello and Dolomite come with pre-wired footbeds that accept specific heat systems (Therm-ic in Atomic and Dalbello, Hotronic in Dolomite) so all you need to do is buy rechargeable battery packs.
Also, all boots can be retrofit with a state-of-the-art system for about $125-$150 (batteries included). All custom footbeds can also be fitted with a heat system. Best bet is to visit good shop and get a boot that fits your foot. If it's pre-wired, great, but most important thing is to get boot designed for your foot shape and a custom footbed will add to comfort and improve performance.
Please provide an objective appraisal of the safety considerations in allowing our daughter to use these boots. I do not want to be foolish.
A. First of all, are you sure they fit your daughter's feet? If not, that is most dangerous situation of all. You should have the boots and her feet evaluated by a professional boot fitter.
Second of all, technology has changed dramatically in last 15 yrs so leased boots today may be more comfortable than bought boots from 80s. Also, modern boots are softer flexing forward than older boots since most turns initiated with shaped skis need more lateral energy and less forward tip pressure.
One important thing to consider is that plastics become brittle over time--especially in colder temperatures. The recommended use of a boot is 7 years. Of course age is also a factor of use. I have, however, seen boots completely split from their soles and that is a dangerous occurrence. As for DIN, standards haven't changed since then so the boots are compatible with current bindings.
So...
Using the boots is not terribly dangerous (IF THEY FIT!!!) but your daughter may not ski as well or be as comfortable. Only you know financially whether the increased cost is worth it to you to have her in new boots.
Q. I had custom footbeds made when I bought my boots so the person who sold me my boots said there is rarely a need to adjust the boot cuff cant. My friends say it is very important. Who’s right?
A. Your friends. And the person you bought your boots from should know better. Adjusting the boot cuff is the first step in stance alignment after having custom footbeds made (which it seems you have already done) and is vitally important if you have even a small degree of knock-knee or bowleg.
I would go back to the shop and ask to speak with the supervising bootfitter. Or you could try to set it yourself. The simplest way to adjust cuff is to take the liner out of the shell and put your footbeds on the bottom of the shell. Loosen the cuff adjuster and put your feet in the boots with your lower leg exposed. You should have equal room to the left and right side of the top of the shell cuff. Have a friend eyeball this. If the space is unequal move the cuff until it become as equal as possible. Then lock it down.
Q. Can i replace the Velcro strap on my boots?
A. You sure can. Many shops keep a supply of older Velcro straps around and will replace them for a nominal fee. But you may also want to consider installing the after-market strap called The Booster. It uses elastic bands that are superior to the standard strap that comes on boots. Click here for more info on The Booster.
Q. Can you recommend boots for very narrow (AAA) feet?
A. Somebody in your situation needs to work with a top boot fit tech to achieve the necessary customization to create adequate fit tension. There simply aren't any really low volume boots made.
As a rule of thumb, the last (interior shape) of top race boots (especially so-called plug boots used by world class racers) are narrowest. If you are not big, strong and accomplished these boots still may be a good choice as a boot tech can soften their flex appropriately.
Q. Can I use a hair blower to custom fit my boots? The liner says it is custom moldable.
A. I wouldn’t suggest using a hair blower as it generates too much heat and not enough air movement and could damage your liner. You need a special twin-blower machine that many ski shops have. It generates the proper amount of heat and air movement. Most of the systems from major boot manufacturers are interchangeable.
Q. Are boot sizes comparable to street shoe sizes?
A. Some are true, others aren't. When it comes to snowboard and ski boots it’s vital to work with a good boot fitter. Unlike shoes, snowsports boots don't come in widths so if the foot is narrow you might best downsize and stretch for length or if it is wide, stretch for width or upsize and pad.
Q. I can get a good deal on a pair of new boots that a friend has that were never used. What should I know?
A. We don’t want to sound flip but that’s sort of like saying you need to see a doctor for an aching elbow and your friend has an appointment with an ophthalmologist that he can’t keep. Should you take it? The most important thing with any boot is to have it properly fit to the foot. Most boots offer reasonable quality and performance. Question is whether they are comfortable and mate well with your body type. If you decide to take a flyer on your friend’s boots, make sure you spends a reasonable amount of time flexing and walking in the boots. Make sure they are not too big (1/2-3/4 in. of space behind the heel with liner out is recommended). That is the biggest problem and detriment to skiing well.
If they meet the basic criteria but are still uncomfortable, pay for a bit of custom fitting at a good shop. If not, just pay the freight and buy a good beginner boot at one of our member shops. Too often people look for a deal on ski boots and wind up buying another pair in a year or so because the "good deal" was a bad boot. Look to save money on skis, bindings and clothing, not boots. They're too important.
Q. My husband has two ankle replacements causing very wide ankles that won't fit in normal boots. (not just the liner but the shell) is there any place we can go to get custom fit boots?
A. Most boots can be customized by a good fitter to compensate for abnormalities such as your husband's. It's best, of course, to start with a boot that is wide in the ankle pocket. From there, the boot fitter will probably remove some padding from liner at the ankles and add some around the protrusion to relieve the pressure. They will also use special equipment to stretch the shell.
Q. Which boots are best for skiers with bowlegs?
A. It’s not a question of which boots are best but what you do with the boots. Compensating for bowlegs should be done by both moving the cuff (which is often incorrectly called canting but is more accurately cuff alignment) and also by installing under-binding cants or planing the boot sole (a process performed by an increasing number of shops). You should also get a custom insole made as that is the foundation for stabilizing your stance.
Q. Are there custom snowboard boots?
A. Yes. Snowboard boots can be customized just like ski boots. Most shops do both. You can get a custom liner made for many snowboard boots and/or have a boot tech make custom insoles and modify the boot in various way to make it fit more comfortably and work better.
Q. My feet are about a half-size different in length. What should I do about selecting a boot?
A. Your problem is not uncommon. Best strategy here is to fit for the smaller foot and expand the shell and liner to accommodate the larger. Otherwise the boots will be too big and you'll lack control. It's not a particular boot that will work but a good boot fitter who will be able to make the accommodations you need.
